After a few days in Manila, we headed to Siargao.
To get there, two planes. A first to Cebu in transit, then a second flight to Siargao. The latter is done in a small aircraft, and on arrival, we discover probably the smallest airport where we have ever landed. The baggage conveyor belt is almost next to the runway. Suitcases go from plane to carpet in seconds, like magic. It's funny to watch, and it immediately puts you in the mood.
And once there, total change.
Everything is slower here. Simpler. More chill.
Siargao is a bit like the surfing reference of the Philippines. An island known for its waves, especially near General Luna, but also for this super relaxed vibe that makes you completely lose track of time. We thought we would stay a few days... and in the end, we stayed there for a whole week without seeing the time pass.
We had booked the whole week at Malipaya Villas, and there, we really fell in love. The concept is quite original: only a few accommodations in the form of domes, located by the sea, very quiet. A shared swimming pool, and above all a private beach right in front, absolutely magnificent. The ideal place to truly disconnect.
We quickly found our rhythm. A good part of the day spent chilling at the villa or on the beach, then we set off to explore or do an activity. A perfect balance between real disconnection and the desire to move. We alternated between very quiet moments at the “casa” and days wandering around the island.
We also made a promise to ourselves during this trip: to keep moving as little as possible. So, we took a skipping rope with us. Every two days or so, a short session in front of our dome, body weights and a few rounds of rope. Simple, but effective to keep the rhythm.
Very quickly, we understood something essential. Here, without a scooter, you don't do much. As soon as we arrived, we rented one, and it was clearly the best decision we made. We spent a lot of time exploring the island at our own pace, without a specific plan, stopping when a place appealed to us.
In particular, we went up to the north, to Alegria Beach, a magnificent and much wilder beach, then to Pacifico Beach, known for its waves and its even quieter side than the south.
We also did some island hopping from General Luna. You board a traditional Filipino boat and go to visit several small islands around Siargao, between sandbanks and swimming spots. These boats are visually magnificent with their colors and their outriggers. On the other hand, the engines do not go unnoticed. The experience is as much visual as it is audio.
On the water, we discover Naked Island, a simple strip of sand in the middle of the ocean, then Daku Island, the largest, with its small local cabins and meals on the beach. And a third, more vegetated and quiet island to rest on.
On Daku, we had a great experience with a boodle fight. A super friendly traditional Filipino meal: everything is placed directly on a large banana leaf, without plates. Rice, fish, meat, vegetables, and everyone eats with their hands. Simple, but really cool.
We also tried a surfing session, just to live the experience to the end. Local instructors have been surfing for years and living on the island their entire lives. The atmosphere was super relaxed, full of jokes and complicity between them. In the end, it was almost more a moment of sharing and fun in a group than a real structured course. And that’s precisely what made the experience even more enjoyable.
And then there is General Luna in the evening. Lots of small bars with live music almost everywhere. In the Philippines, they love it. You go from one place to another, and every time someone is playing or singing. The evenings are very lively.
One thing that is quite striking on the island: there are a lot of stray dogs, really everywhere. On the roads, in villages, in front of shops. They are completely part of the landscape. Surprising at first, then you get used to it very quickly.
In the evening, we often went to eat in carenderia, small local canteens. The principle: a counter with several already cooked dishes displayed in bins. You choose, we serve you with rice. Simple, fast, very local. Nothing fancy, but always very good and super welcoming. Little tip by the way: there are almost never prices displayed, so you have to ask before to avoid the tourist price.
We also adopted Red Horse, the local beer. Quite strong, but really very good, well above the classic beers that you find everywhere. She was part of our evenings all week.
One last point that was important to us to mention: Siargao, like the Philippines in general